A four day weekend for the kids meant a long anticipated trip to Cairo could be planned. Flights worked out to where we could only spend two full days and fly back early on the third, but we had always planned on two days in Cairo and then another trip for Luxor and beyond, so we took advantage of the time to visit the main sites and get a feel for the city.
The nine o’clock flight meant we could get a full nights rest, and the two hour plane flight passed quickly. We had arranged a tour guide and driver for the two days, so we were met as we stepped of the plane and assisted with buying a visa stamp and progressing through immigration. FlyNAS operates in and out of a smaller, older terminal at Cairo International, so the crowds were non-existent and we were through the airport in about 20 minutes.
We met our tour guide, Khaled, and he laid out the plan for the day. We would make our first stop at Saladin Citadel, the seat of Egyptian government for 700 years. The vendors we had been warned about had started as soon as we exited the van at the citadel. We had anticipated much worse than what we experienced. Almost all of them would ask once and then back away once, as opposed to the Istanbul vendors who would follow you while repeatedly trying to interest you in their wares.
We visited Muhammad Ali Mosque, modeled on the Ottoman style found in Istanbul. Khaled filled us in on the history, then went to pray while we walked around the interior of the mosque. The views from atop the citadel walls were amazing. A TV crew was set up filming with the Cairo cityscape as the backdrop.
There were many field trips from the local schools occurring that day, and lots of the kids would look at our kids and practice their English, mostly limited to “Hello, what is your name?”. Several times, the girls would follow closely behind Macy and actually reach out and stroke her hair. There were a few stops for Macy and Cade to take part in selfies with the ones brave enough to ask. It seems a boring school trip turned exciting when the American kids showed up.
We then crossed the Nile (as I’ve mentioned a few times in the blog, the words on the screen don’t quite convey the internal trembling I get when I type those words…WE CROSSED THE NILE). Our driver checked for police and pulled over so we could jump out for some pictures. The wind was wreaking havoc for pictures, but the breeze was welcome on a sunny Cairo day.
Our next stop was the Coptic Christian section, and this is where we really saw the security pick up. I can’t say I haven’t been somewhat nervous about visiting Cairo with all the unrest, but at the end of the day, we live in Saudi Arabia. Risk assumed already. But as with Saudi, I never felt unsafe while there, and everyone was friendly. This was an understatement for the Coptic area, as everyone attending the entrances met us with a warm smile and welcoming attitude.
We visited the Hanging Church, built on top of an old Roman Fortress gatehouse. The city level has risen up around the church, reducing the apparent elevation difference from the time it was built. It’s still a beautiful church, full of Coptic history and icons. It is the seat of the Coptic Pope, and the entrance hall to the interior atrium has portraits of all the previous Popes.
We then visited Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church, named for two soldier-martyrs from the 4th century. The church is most famous for being built above a crypt that is said to be the location the Holy Family stayed in Egypt for three years. There is a small alcove that is marked as being the cradle of baby Jesus.
Our last visit was to the Ben Ezra Synagogue, which is famous for being located on the site where baby Moses was found in the reeds by the pharaoh’s daughter. A storeroom in the synagogue is also where the Cairo Geniza was found, 300,000 Jewish documents spanning 1000 years.
We visited the pyramids of Giza. When the family shipped me off for the first time, they sent me with a box of goodies that they had decorated. They drew three things – the Eiffel Tower, Big Ben, and the Pyramids of Giza. This is one of the things you dream of seeing from the earliest grade book pictures of times that can’t even be grasped, either then or at an advanced age. The structures were built over four thousand years ago. Trying to comprehend that is more dizzying than standing at the base of the pyramids and looking up. Try it at the same time, and you suddenly feel the 1.3 million miles/hour that we are currently hurtling through space come crashing in. Just as we feel we are standing still on Earth, while in fact we are spinning around the axis while revolving around the sun, plus pulled through the universe along with the Milky Way, the relative motion of our day-to-day life is minuscule compared to the lives that have been lived. It is really that big of a “WOW” factor. They are truly a sight to see for yourself, and I’m not going to try to sum up all the feelings in this blog. The pictures will serve as our reminder of what we did there (and you are all spared from the other 2000 pictures on our hard drive).
We all decided to visit the burial chamber; this was in question due to claustrophobia issues with some of our crew. No names, but it start with S and ends with usan. Once the gumption was worked up, everyone was game. There were quite a few people inside, and as we waited for some people to exit the last descent, an Egyptian “guide” inside offered to take us up. Offered here is defined as just went with us. We bent over and made the initial 20 meter ascent, rested to catch our breath, then finished the 80 meter ascent upright. We hunched for the final passage to the burial chamber and posed for some photos taken by our friendly guide, spending about 15 minutes without anyone else there. We made him pose in our selfie, then made the descent while he waited to “guide” the next group. Greene’s claustrophobia was buried deep and she said it was one of her favorite experiences ever.
We then went for a viewing from a vista point before walking over to the camel stand and heading out for a quick trek to another vantage point.
We got dropped for lunch at a place close to the pyramids, and the food was good. All the usual mixed salads were present, but a few new ones we hadn’t tried were very good, including fasulya (a white bean salad). Then they brought out the costumes and we cheesily posed for pictures. We had fun making fun of the fun making, which made it all fun, so it worked out okay.
The next day was a trip down to Dharfur, site of the first pyramids, and Saqqara, the necropolis of ancient Memphis and the Old Kingdom. The area from Giza to Dharfur, along the west bank of the Nile, is a pyramid field. In ancient times, the living occupied the east side of the Nile, where the sun rises, and the dead occupied the west.
Friday morning traffic is always light Muslim countries, so our journey down was quick and uneventful. We were some of the first to arrive in Dharfur, and we had the Red Pyramid completely to ourselves. Cade and Greene, hereafter known as the sane, decided to walk around the base of the pyramid, while Macy and I, hereafter known as the masochists, decided to visit the burial chamber here. Cade had walked up to the entry with us, but took one look down the shaft and decided he still had some common sense. It made the Khufu Pyramid trek feel like a vacation. The initial descent is about 80 meters, followed by a climb up stairs. This means that the return trip finishes with an 80 meter ascent. Hunched. After spending 15 minutes in a hot, bat-urine filled burial chamber. Would I recommend? Yes. We were the only ones in there and it felt like a great adventure.
We then drove down to the Bent Pyramid, the first attempt at building a pyramid. The front end engineering was lacking, and that resulted in a course correction partway through. The project manager was given another opportunity, with the reward being the right to keep his head attached to his neck. That second chance resulted in the previously visited Red Pyramid and spinal cord continuity.
Next stop was Saqqara, where the Step Pyramid, or Pyramid of Djoser, is the main focal point. The elevation of the funerary provides an excellent vantage point to look over the green Nile River valley, and the placement of tombs at a higher locale made the trip to the heavens shorter. The step design is a result of mastabas, flat burial complexes, being improved and built upon one level at a time. The transition from stepped to smooth pyramids occurred between Djoser and Sneferu’s Red Pyramid. Absolutely fantastic area, where one could easily spend an entire day exploring all of the pyramids and burial tombs in the expansive site.
Alas, we did not have all day. We still had to see the Egyptian Museum. After a quick buffet lunch on a riverboat on the Nile, we made our way to the museum. Khaled was great at taking us from highlight to highlight, willing to stop if we asked questions about anything in between. We ponied up for the Mummy Room, and were glad we did. The museum is in transition to a new building close to the Giza pyramids, so Tut’s treasures are currently split between old and new buildings. Most are still on display here, however, so it’s still very much worth a visit. Another transcendental experience happened while viewing King Tut’s mask…how many things we’ve had the opportunity to see with our own eyes. The famous mask is amazing to see in person, and we all appreciate the experiences.
Khan El Khalili market was shoulder to shoulder, and the security was once again highly visible. We were actually assigned an officer to walk around with us. The vendors were loud but respectful of our declinations. After shopping and taking in the sights, we waited for our driver to return through the slower-than-walking-pace traffic to pick us up. Several young local girls came up to Greene to asks for pictures with her. It soon turned into a crowd of young girls, mothers handing over babies, and young boys vying for Macy’s attention. Many families sat around picnicking and people-watching. We made a mad dash out into traffic, jumped in the van, and headed for the hotel.
We spent another evening on the balcony of our hotel, the Intercontinental Semiramis. Fireworks, river cruises, pedestrians crossing the bridges, traffic and horns, music from the cafe below. Cairo is crowded, dirty and hectic; Cairo is lively, lived-in and exhilarating. Millions of people have inhabited this area for thousands of years, and our short two days there made us wish for more.
From Tennessee To Texas to Saudi Arabia 